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March 201701 March 2017 We were enjoying a peaceful night at our campsite, more so by being lone. But then at 1.30am we were woken by a small vehicle with a very noisy exhaust coming into the lookout and parking right behind us (literally). Looking out the back window we could see two male backpackers in their little hatchback. Deciding that they were no threat we went back to bed and awoke to a nice morning and the two men were still asleep. We went through our normal morning routine and then headed off down the road, which was less than good, the two men still asleep, but probably not for long as the sun would be heating that little car up pretty quickly. With our tyres down to 24psi we were going okay, even on the corrugations. We could also see the tyre marks of the little vehicle that parked behind us, and the marks looked like the driver was drunk as he tried to dodge the worst of the corrugations, often crossing the road at right angles or driving in the grass. The scenery along the way was terrific and we passed lots and lots of wild horses who were often right up to the road. At one stage a small dingo remained on the road and then tried chasing us, but we soon left him behind.
Along the way the scenery was exceptionally good, even if the road was a little challenging with washouts and corrugations.
Gotta love the outback driving advice. Coming to the intersection to go to Hermannsburg we were in the middle of some major roadwork's and the road ahead was closed, so rather than taking the dirt to Hermannsburg we were going to head to Grosse Bluff and then through the Western Macs to Alice Springs. Heading for Grosse Bluff which according to Aboriginal legend was the result of a baby being put down in its turna while its mother and other women were dancing through the sky as the milky way, and the baby and tuna toppling off the edge to land on the earth where rocks and sand covered it from view and formed the bluff. The scientific version is that the earths surface through here was significantly higher than it is now and a meteor about 600m across hit the earth forming the rocky structure (and probably killing the dinosaur kangaroos of the whotheheckknows era).
Our first view of Grosse Bluff as we made our way along the Larapinta Way.
The road into Grosse Bluff, which we intended going as far as a good photo would provide, but ended going the whole 6km in.
And then the track narrowed and at time was a sandpit requiring low range and, planting um foot.
Looks easier than it was. Another dry rocky creek crossing.
A small but interesting dip.
After leaving Grosse Bluff we made our way on and up to Tylers Pass Lookout where we enjoyed lunch and the view back to Grosse Bluff.
Not far from the Glen Helen Resort and Gorge we crossed the wet Finke River crossing. Our home is a Winjana, Ormiston 630 and named after the Ormiston Gorge, so we took it to its namesake for a look. Driving in there were some roadwork's to get past as they were repairing and replacing some of the road after the recent floods. Arriving at the kiosk we also considered camping there but after seeing the very small, uneven camp/caravan park we decided to continue on, but not before taking a walk and some photographs.
One of the views at Ormiston Gorge.
Some great reflections at Ormiston Gorge. Leaving the gorge we made our way up to the Neil Hargrave Lookout where we took pride of place in front of the view and set up camp. Two backpackers (Germany and Hong Kong) came in in their Falcon Station wagon and set up nearby at the table and water tank.
The view out of our back window as the sun set. 02 March 2017 Waking to a beautiful sunrise we packed up and headed out. Stopping in at another lookout on the way we thought we might get a phone signal and then be able to stay there to not only catch up electronically, but to upload the website and book the ute in for it's 30,000km service, but alas, no signal. Making our way on towards Alice Springs we detoured to the Ellery Big Hole for a look, and ended up having a chat with John Howe, an equine dentist who travels all over Australia bringing dentistry to the nations horses. John was a wealth of knowledge about various outback roads and tracks and so we gained some more information on outback travel.
Ellery Big Hole which on a hot day would be the place to be around these parts. With not enough fuel to get to Hermannsburg we made our way into Alice Springs where we fuelled up, booked the car in for Monday, did some shopping and caught up with some electronic news before heading out to Hermannsburg along what we thought to be a fairly non descript road as it passed through grassy plains and low scrub. We could see the Southern side of the Western Mac's but the view was not a pinch on the main road through them. Arriving in Hermannsburg (the first Aboriginal Mission in the Northern Territory and established by the Lutheran Church in 1877) we checked out the caravan park on the way past (but it didn't look that inviting) then passed the indigenous housing estates before promptly landing in the middle of the NT Chief Minister's opening of some new things at the historic precinct. Stopping for lunch outside the Historic Precinct Joanne managed to find someone to talk to and found out that there was camping in near the old buildings on the banks of the Finke River. $10 a night (free if you want to volunteer to help) got us a spot next to some fruiting date palms, a 10amp extension cord for power from the caretakers residence and a toilet and shower block a few buildings away, so we took it. Added to that there was a $9 per person fee to be able to walk around the place and see what was there.
Our $10 a night camp spot inside the fence at the Historic Precinct. We set up camp and then took a walk around the place which we had all to ourselves. The historic precinct consists of the old Bakery and Dining Room, Meat house, School, Correspondence School, Tannery, Blacksmiths and Saddlery, Colonists house, Church, Missionary's house, Isolation ward, Maids quarters, Mess house/Ration Store, Manse, Boys Dorm and site of Girls Dorm. Hermannsburg is also the birthplace of Albert Namatjira, arguably Australia's most famous Aboriginal Artist. One of the old buildings has an art gallery in it but the original Namatjira works held here are now in the climate controlled shop to try and preserve them.
Most of the old Hermannsburg buildings.
The old Manse, now an art gallery and two private residences.
The Boys Dormitory.
The second Church (built on top of the first), and reason for Hermannsburg existing. So after our look around the place and a nice shower there was just time for updating this and then heading for bed. 03 March 2017 With it being hot yesterday evening we left all the windows and the door open to allow the breeze through and enjoyed a very peaceful night. Waking early this morning we got ready and leaving the house on its own we headed off to explore Palm Valley in the BT50.
Well, if the sign is right this should be interesting.
Not far after we started down the road we arrived at our first crossing of the Finke River.
The first two crossings were easy and the view just got better the further we went.
There's more water in this crossing.
And then we got to drive up the riverbed, half following the GPS and half following the other tracks. At one stage we followed the tracks and then decided to take them around a large sandy spot on what we thought was a chicken track, but the tracks ran out and so we went back to the water and the sand trap. Getting back into the water and lining the sand up we engaged the diff locks and low range and then with a run up at the sand made it through the trap which went for about half a kilometre. Yahoo! Now we are having fun.
Nice of someone to put a road marker in to guide us. Just after we got through we could hear two people on the UHF discussing the tracks we tried and came back from, and how to engage the diff locks in one of the vehicles. So, once they finished talking we hopped on the radio and passed on the information that they need to go over the water and then through the sand, not up the river. They thanks us and seemed like they were going to follow us, but we never heard them again. Hope they took the right track!
And then there was this steep, sandy approach to the water where we washed the bullbar as we edged into the water.
Another shot of it. And so after some sand, river and water driving with diff locks in and in low range, we came to some other interesting bits where we had to stop and build the rocks up to ensure we didn't scrape or bend anything underneath. Then, with Joanne out of the vehicle and guiding the wheel placement we carefully made our way along, each time the rock building and terrain got harder and harder.
Good road building required at times both up and down the track. We seemed to hit a plateau and then began to drive across the large flat(ish) rock areas, which were fairly easy as we just let the vehicle idle itself along.
The markers helped a little but were only through this little part.
And then just after taking this shot we dropped Joanne's camera! Now the lens cover plays up hence some shots being cut off at the top.
We had to stop for a shot of Cycad Gorge.
More hill climbs and rock hopping which were interesting.
And now some hill climbs. Well, after 2 hours of driving we made it to the end of the trail where there is a small rotunda with interpretive panels underneath. We then set off on foot to traverse the shorter 2km walk along the Palm Valley floor, then up the steps and back along the top of the ridge. There is a 4km walk but we decided not to do that because even at 10.30am it was very hot.
The white tree against the red rock was just stunning.
And another. So after climbing the stairs to the top and following the markers we came to the top and made our way along the ridge and through the spinifex, eventually finding nice views of the gorge below us as we came to the end.
Looking back where we walked earlier.
The Palm Valley floor has the palm trees along one side where the water remains for most of the year. Unfortunately the reeds and other weeds also thrive there and the shots of palm trees next to the dark red walls of the gorge were not there. Perhaps they were on the longer 4km walk So after getting back to the ute (1 hour and 10 minutes later) we now had to make our way back to Hermannsburg. More 4wd fun.
Looking a little like Arizona the rocky formations made for great viewing on the way back.
And we even found ET hiding in the rocks. And so back through the big dip, river crossings, riverbed driving, sand traps and other fun bits we made it back to the easy driving and then Hermannsburg. And we didn't even find the two vehicles that we were helping on the radio on the way in, so we figured they had turned around after we told them about the first sand and riverbed crossing. 04 March 2017 Waking early to another beautiful but hot day we packed up and made our way back into Alice Springs. Booking into the Wintersun Caravan Park around 10am we were told to take our pick of the sites and set up where we wanted, and with only one other caravan in it was pretty easy to find a spot. We spent the next few hours running around town getting odd things and some food and wine before the shops shut. Tomorrow will be out exploring a little and then Monday will see the ute get it's 30,000km service and Tuesday will see us hit the road once more. Darwin on cyclone watch and various roads already showing they are closed due to rain may make picking a route East an interesting exercise or result in an interesting experience. 05 March 2017 Today we took the opportunity to go and visit the National Road Transport Hall of Fame and Old Ghan Train Railway Museum. Taking a fairly quick trip around the place because of the heat we still managed to spend over two and a half hours in the place. Upstairs we spent lots of time looking at the exhibits from all sorts of transport subjects, and even learnt about how various well known Companies began and who started them, then outside we were walking amongst all sorts of vehicles and old relics of every type, and then it was inside to view the very expensive Kenworth Trucks.
And we thought we had fun getting to Palm Valley! We can only imagine how interesting the trip would have been back then.
Some of the inside exhibits.
A clever exhibit in the Kenworth Building.
Even some old movie props made the museum, complete with Michael Caton's Taxi License on the Dash. The truck and road and transport exhibits were great to look around and to be honest we were surprised at how much we enjoyed it, even reading the Hall of Fame Inductee's information. Disappointingly though, we didn't manager to find Len Beadell's Landrover, and the volunteer manning the desk didn't know where it was either. We did however find Robert Lasseters old Landrover which he used over many years to try and find his fathers fabled, Gold Reef.
Lasseters Landrover. It would have been a hairy ride on the roof! And then it was time to see that the old Ghan Museum had to show us. The exhibits in the old Stuart Station building were interesting, but overall it was slightly disappointing. A walk through the old train showed how life onboard would have been back then.
An old Commonwealth Rail Loco at the station.
Drink in the bar anyone?
Or a meal perhaps?
Loved the lead light of the Gap and Todd River at Alice Springs which we found on an old carriage out the back. So after a fairly busy morning we made our way back to the caravan park and spent a relaxing afternoon in the air conditioning. 08 March 2017 The day after our sightseeing was spent with getting the ute in for it's 30,000 km service and being there when the doors opened meant it was ready to be picked up early as well. Shopping for the trip ahead was also a priority and that was done in very muggy weather and 30 odd degrees. The next morning we cleaned the leaves and stuff off the roof of the house, connected up and headed off South! We were meant to be going North but the Plenty Highway (or Donohue as it is called in Qld) was still closed. We had been calling the Boulia Shire for a number of days now and Ron, the road foreman just kept telling us it was still closed and that there would be an update on the Qld Roads website when anything changed, so we made other plans. So with our planned route closed we had three choices. 1. Take the bitumen North to Three Ways and then go across the Barkley into Qld; 2. Go South and take the Oodnadatta Track to Marree and then either the Birdsville or Strezlecki North and into Qld;, or 3. Wait it out and see what happened. Calls to Oodnadatta and to Birdsville confirmed that both tracks were open and so we reluctantly turned South and in one foul swoop made it to Marla where we took up a spot behind the roadhouse ($10 for power and $10 per person). We did stop on the 450 km trip for a look at the Finke River, normally a six lane highway, now just down to a trickle in one lane.
It's hard to imagine that not long ago we were driving along, through and across part of this river on the way to Palm Valley.
And we did stop at the SA/NT Border for lunch and a look at the double sided sign.
Settling into camp at Marla we met Gus and Debbie in their Travelhome 5th wheeler, and it turned out that Gus used to work with a friend of ours - Geoff Henderson, at Telecom in Darwin a number of years ago (and he says Hello Hendo!) On the way down the highway we had stopped to top up our fuel at Kulgera and the man there said that he had heard the Oodnadatta was closed, but "check with the Cops at Marla" he said. Well, when the two Policewomen drove around camp in the evening we stopped them for a chat. "No, the Oodna is open but, gee, it's rough. You'll get through but...", and then, to top it off we checked the Qld Roads website and the Plenty Highway had been opened to all traffic at 2.15pm! And it was about now we wondered if we were going to actually make this trip or not. So, we over dinner we made the executive decision to return to Alice Springs in the morning and to head along our original planned route, which we did this morning. Arriving back in Alice we fuelled up, had lunch and headed 30km out to the rest area at the Tropic of Capricorn after what has been one of our largest drive days ever. 09 March 2017 By the time we awoke this morning there were seven of us campers in the rest are and little room for any more. The last camper came in around 3am and was fast asleep on a mattress on the ground next to their ute. The family was up with Mum and Dad teaching the three kids how to use the bush phone, the backpacker in his van was getting ready to leave as was the old bloke in the toyota and trailer. The Vietnam vet an his wife were still inside their caravan and the bloke who ran his generator all night (thankfully down the other end of the rest area) was packing up, as were we. Out onto the highway we easily covered the short distance to the turn off and then, turning right we were on the Plenty Highway.
The start of the Plenty Highway Road closed and 4wd only signs were plastered across the road information board as we passed it. The double lane bitumen shortly becoming single lane as we made our way along, small ranges appearing on either side of the road and then in front.
And then the narrow lane stuff started.
New sections of the Plenty are being made all the time, and we enjoyed them all.
Who pinched the bitumen? At one stage we were required to take a chicken track alongside the new bitumen road that was not quite finished as it passed the entrance to the Mount Riddock station, and from here on the only bitumen was the across the occasional creek or washout, and in the Aboriginal Community at Harts Range. The sign said they welcomed visitors at the Altitere Aboriginal Community, especially as they had fuel and a store so we drove kilometre in along a bitumen road until we came to the store. What greeted us was a typical scene from any of the communities we have been to. Cars of all sorts in need of repair were parked everywhere, community members walking around everywhere and piling in and out of cars, cars coming and going, and take away food and soft drinks everywhere. We couldn't see the fuel pump anywhere and were glad that we didn't need any fuel. So, having seen yet another community we turned around and drove out, returning the waves from community members as we went.
The Harts Range Police Station, where two full time Police have a beat that covers 115,000 square kilometres!
The Harts Range behind the Altitere Community.
The crossing of the river that gives it's name to the highway, The Plenty. Stopping just after the river we emptied one of our jerry cans into the tank and then made the short distance into Jervois Station where we topped up our fuel at $1.89 c/l. Pulling into the station we passed the small camping area before pulling up at the pumps. Doing as instructed we pressed the buzzer (which the sign said was loud - and it was) and waited for the lady to come out and serve us, and we enjoyed a chat with her while we filled up.
A Termite Skyscraper sits next to the road and which is even marked on wikicamps as a Point of Interest.
The scenery not far from where we finished the days drive.
Our camp for the night, not far from Mount Guide.
Sunset 10 March 2017 A peaceful but hot night courtesy of the high thirties temperatures we have been experiencing, but with all the windows and door open, and the fan going we remained as cool as we possibly could, though it only got down to the mid 20's throughout the night. Heading off this morning towards Tobermoray and the Qld Border we made our way along what has been the worst part of the road since Alice Springs, but with the air down to 22 and 24 psi and taking it easy we had a relatively comfortable ride. Rivers, dry creek crossings and washouts made us slow down. Passing more and more open ground we made our way towards Boulia, the road changing and getting narrower and narrower in places, and often with grass and weeds growing up between the wheel tracks.
This is a highway? (taken on the move)
and then this, again taken on the move.
and even the remains of a very boggy section from recent rains. We stopped for this shot. Our fuel plan included a stop just before Tobermoray to use up our remaining jerry can, then a stop into Tobermoray to top the rest of the tank up, but after using the Jerry Can the tank was almost full so we discarded the stop in and continued on our way. Lots of short, sharp crests to get up and down after Tobermoray as we climbed a little and then came to the Qld Border which is just a cattle grid and a heap of signs.
The Qld/NT Border. Not far from the border we stopped and had a chat with a couple towing a caravan and heading the way we had just come. Swapping information on the road ahead they told us we were going to encounter some really bad road that forced them down to 40km/h or under because it was so bad. We had better news for them and they were grateful for it as they had had enough of the bumps. We were making good progress and then we came to the Georgina River where just after the river itself there was a new piece of road being constructed. We stopped again for a chat and once again swapped road reports with another couple, this time from WA and who towing a caravan. The Georgina River, despite recent rains and floods was not much more than a trickle, but had enough water for the water tankers to fill up from so they could dump it on the new road, and the chicken track that we had to take. And that was where we got covered in mud, courtesy of the water tanker coming toward us, end even boggy enough to even engage 4wd! We enjoyed a chat on the UHF radio with the roller and grader driver and even the supervisor before stopping further up the road for lunch and to scrape off as much mud as we could. Lunch and mud scrape off over, the closer we got to Boulia the more bitumen stretches we encountered, mostly going for around 8km's and then, about 60km's out we hit the bitumen again and remained on it after pulling over to air up again. At about 15km's from Boulia we could see the water tower at the top of the main street near the airport, and then we came to the Bengeacca Creek causeway, a narrow concrete track across the creek with beautiful views on one side and a dry rocky bed on the other.
The narrow causeway with very nice water views on to the left.
The view that made us look harder as we crossed the causeway. We enjoyed the water views with the trees reflecting in the water and just as we got to the other side we spotted a track leading off along the bank, so we took it, and that was the end of our days travel rather than at the Boulia Caravan Park as originally planned.
Our campsite.
Such a pretty spot on a hot day.
Further upstream. 11 March 2017 Another hot night but with everything open and the fan going again we slept well and woke early enough to get some great shots of the reflections in the water.
Beautiful reflections only spoilt by the sun coming between the trees. Packed up and on our way we stopped for a shot at the Boulia Boomerang before heading to the wash down area just out of town near the airport, where we spent about an hour washing off the dust from the Great Central Road and the mud from the chicken track.
Is that how you spell Boulia? So after a nice spot on the creek just 10km's out of town we stopped at the supermarket, fuelled up ($1.50 per litre) and made our way to the caravan park where, with only one other van in, we had a pick of any site we wanted. We chose one that gave us maximum shade for the whole day and settled in. 12 March 2017 The good thing about being up here at the moment is that hardly anybody else is, and so not only are the caravan parks and free camps empty but so is the road. Leaving Boulia we made our way towards Winton, passing through countryside we have passed before, but never seen. Why have we not seen it? Because it is green. Every time we have been through here it has been dry, dead and brown.
Passing the Hamilton Hotel ruins we crossed the numerous creeks that make up the Hamilton Channels, water in most and then we were approaching the Middleton Hotel, the door open as we passed but vehicles out the front. Just over 5km's from the hotel we spied what looked like a hut about a kilometre off the highway, nestled not far from a rocky outcrop and looking like a Western Movie set, and that is what is was. The movie Goldstone was filmed around here and the hut was built specifically for the movie. Look up Mystery Road - Goldstone on Facebook and you will see what it was about, and who was in it.
The Hut.
Not very luxurious.
Doorway View We spent some time wandering around looking at the hut and taking photos before the very hot sun drove us back into the ute and the air conditioning. Arriving at the Cawnpore Lookout we were pleased to see the track up to the lookout itself was no longer able to be used by vehicles (probably due to the damage caused) and so after parking at the bottom and taking the short walk up to the top we were amazed at the difference the rain has made.
The direction we are heading. (2017)
The same scene back in July 2013.
Today.
Back in 2013 Moving on we eventually arrived in Winton where we found the first caravan park closed and up for sale, maybe the result of their trying to have the free camp down at the waterhole shut down and their whinging on the Internet about it. Passing through the main mostly empty main street we saw where the Matilda Centre was before the fire that raised it to the ground and then, after fuelling up, headed out of town to the Crawford Rest Area as the clouds built up and darkened. Despite the rain that broke the drought out here the countryside is still quite dead and brown, but it does have a tinge of green. We arrived at the rest area and as with the past three visits, took up the same spot, and then, just as we had finished setting up the rain began to fall as the awning went up. A good mil or two of rain had fallen and we hoped the moisture and the heat would not make it worse, and thankfully it didn't, but it was warm, and a shower and the fan helped sleeping just that little bit better. 13 March 2017 Despite the heat we slept okay and woke to find one other camper and his dog camped nearby in his car. We made our way to Longreach, twice having to get totally off the road for two large mining trucks and their buckets to pass through.
First the trucks at 5.5m wide.
Then, closer to town, the buckets at 6.4m Coming into Longreach we stopped near the Qantas Museum for a pit stop before continuing on. The scenery changed after Longreach and back came the very dry, dead grassland making for a slightly boring drive to Barcaldine. Stopping for fuel and a late morning tea we continued on to Jericho as the scenery changed back to greenery and nice white trunked gum trees. Over the railway line, along the short main street and back over the railway again we found the local Jericho showgrounds where we pulled up in the shade, plugged in and settled in as the sun, clouds and 40 degree heat kept the place hot. 14 March 2017 We left Jericho this morning after a pleasant night with air conditioning making sleep much easier, and with the sun and humidity rising we were glad to be inside the car with the climate control to keep us cool. Passing through the small town of Alpha we were on a fairly bumpy road which made driving slightly harder and slower as we covered another part of the map that we had not driven before. Turning off the Capricorn Highway we made our way into Sapphire where we visited on our around Australia cycling trip. Sapphire was not the place we remembered from 15 years ago. Gone was the moonscape fossicking field in the middle of town replaced by tufts of grass and houses and buildings. The free camp had changed a lot as well and there was now a swimming pool right next to it. More and more homes looked like someone actually owned and cared for them rather than the shacks that we remembered. We found Snow Hall's place where we stayed whilst there and it looked worse than we remembered as well, though the "Not Home" sign on the gate to the shed his caravan is in was the same. We had a bit more of a look around and left town after lunch, making our way back to the highway where we crossed it and took a look at the small town of Anakie. Slightly better and more "normal" than Sapphire, but only a couple of streets, school, Police Station, Railway Station and tip. Back on the Capricorn Highway we made our way into Emerald where we topped up with fuel and some shopping before heading out of town and South. Storms were brewing all around and the temperature and humidity was definitely on the rise, and somewhere around Mt Alexander we just had to pull over for some shots of the storm that was just ahead of us.
Mt Alexander (the funny shaped thing on the right). Quickly packing up the camera we just made it inside as a storm came up behind us. Back out onto the road we managed we made our way to Springsure after only a short time in the rain. Taking the short road down to the road camp and vehicle wash down we obeyed the No Camping signs and headed back to the small Lions Park on the highway. Hoping that the No Camping - Fines Apply sign meant no use of the grassed area we set up camp out the back and in view of the Virgin Rock as the storms cleared away and the sun came out.
The Virgin Rock (to the left) is supposed to resemble the Virgin Mary and Child The storms had cooled the place down somewhat and life was somewhat more bearable than before. One other vehicle came in and parked out closer to the road and then as night fell the lights came on on the rockface.
The lights are down at the road work camp and stay on until late. 15 March 2017 Despite being close to the road we enjoyed a reasonable nights sleep and woke early hoping to get photos of the sunrise on the rockface, but the sky was clouded over and the mood definitely different than yesterdays sunny break after the rain.
The Virgin Rock as the cloud began to clear. We made our way into town just a few kilometres away and had a look. Quite a small but nice looking town and just starting its day as we passed through. Up hill and down dale we were headed towards Rolleston. Passing through tree'd hills and then into open grasslands we could also see what looked like a large range off to the right and the closer we got the more of the rockface we could see. Rolleston turned out to be nothing more than a whistle stop town and so after a drive through we headed down the Carnarvon Development Road towards Injune, another road we have not traversed. We didn't stay on the Carnarvon Development Road for long though as we took a slight detour. Turning off the main road we crossed a cattle grid and enjoyed 48km's of dirt road that passed through various properties whose boundaries are marked by cattle grids. The Carnarvon National Park was in view and we could see more and more of the ridges and tops of the park as we drove. Back on the bitumen at Rewan Station we passed the site of a WWII Aircraft Crash and stopped for a look.
Parts of the plane have been used for the memorial to those who died.
The photo tells all. Dropping down a good 4 or 5 metres into the very deep, and dry Carnarvon Creek to cross the causeway it was a struggle to get up the other side. The creek would be an interesting sight when in full flow. We considered a detour to Carnarvon National Park and the Carnarvon Gorge, but a look at the fuel gauge told us not to, so it will have to be another trip another time. We later found out that the walk to the gorge is a 19km round trip! Camping in the park also seems to be only during the holidays unless you want to go to the commercial campgrounds. Back on the Carnarvon Highway it was a fairly straight forward drive, that is until we came to an area where the road wound its way through the gorge area and then climbed and climbed. The climb was quite a haul and we were down to a slow 2nd gear crawl behind a B-Double freight truck as he went through the gears to climb and then to descend. Not far after the large climb we came to the scene where a B-Double carrying sand had fallen over on its side. The driver and other people around and all seemed okay and the witches hats were already out so we just rubber necked, took a photo on the move and kept going.
Must have been tired from that haul up the hill. Arriving in Injune, we topped up with fuel and then after a short drive through town stopped outside the Rodeo Grounds (free camping there if you want it) for lunch and then, after deciding we had had enough driving for the day, checked out the camping spot at the racecourse and then went back into town and paid to stay. So for $15 we got a gravel site, power, water, air conditioning and storms filling the sky with heat and humidity, oh, and a free 2 foot long zucchini from the visitors information centre where we paid. 16 March 2017 The storms last night were a doozy and with an orange sunset filling the sky and water everywhere it looked quite nasty. This morning however you would hardly think we had any rain let alone that big storm. We packed up and after a trip to the dump point grabbed some things at the supermarket and then hit the road, and it wasn't long before we were in Roma. A quick fuel up and we were on our way down to Surat. THe trip to Surat was an easy one and the surrounding countryside was as green as we have ever seen it courtesy of the rain. Arriving in town we checked out the free camp and the new, almost open toilet and shower block. We also checked out the new buildings in the caravan park and then took a quick look at the weir, which was flowing nicely. Heading out of town we passed the GrainFlow site where we had been working only six months ago before making our way to Glenmorgan where we thought about camping, but the thought of the town of Meandarra a further 23km's away kept us driving, but we had to negotiate a few water hazards first.
Well, it's one way to wash the underside of the rig. Arriving in Meandarra we found only two other campers in the cheap $10 for three nights camp (including power and water), both of which had good shade and a nice view of the swollen creek. We found a spot but with no shade it was quite warm. A walk over the railway and down to the road crossing of the creek revealed all of the water trying to get under the road and through the just two small drains, and causing quite a racket as it did.
Looking back at the rail crossing from the road.
Sunset over the railway.
Looking across the creek from our campsite. The clouds had built up again and then, after dark the rain began to fall yet again. 17 March 2017 Waking after a peaceful night we watched as one and then two of the other campers packed up and moved on, so, we quickly moved to the nice shady spot and after negotiating the tree's a little, even managed to get a satellite TV signal through them. The rest of the day was spent ding the washing, some other chores and relaxing. Two other campers came in and set up nearby and then sunset was upon us and time to get the camera out again.
Tonight's sunset across the creek. 24 March 2017 It's been a while since we updated the web and it has taken some time to remember exactly what we have been doing. We left Meandarra and headed off through Tara and onto Cecil Plains via a road that the in-car navigator didn't know about. Managing to totally confuse her, she must have worn her calculator out trying to recalculate the route, giving as good as she got by telling us to take roads that were not even there, and trying to invent a 4wd adventure for us that would have been very interesting. Nearing Toowoomba we were first into Federation Park as he weather began to close in. Federation Park seems to be the only free camp around Toowoomba, and we managed to set up on the most level part, right next to Prime Ministers Walk, a short walk along a line of trees that bear a plaque for each PM.
Our Federation Park camp. The next day we drove the 16km's into town and arrived at the home of Winjana where we had some warranty work done, did some shopping and then collecting some new outside chairs that we had ordered for in store pick up before we had even left WA. From there it was on to onto Marburg at the showgrounds. There are 10 spots available there and they were all taken, but the caretaker was sure he had heard a problem with our rig when we came in, and so told us to stay just in case it really was a problem :-) The next morning our problem had miraculously disappeared and so we left town and made our way to Jimboomba where Paul (one of my cousins) lives with his wife Yvette. Spending the evening catching up it was quite late when we headed off to bed. Waking the next morning there was some work to be done to help with the beginnings of a new Aviary. Paul has compiled and bred a very large collection of beautiful birds, including Macaw's, so naturally it was a good excuse to check them out at feeding time. So after two nights with Paul and Yvette we left this morning, heading off into the traffic and heading North to Redcliffe where we enjoyed the coastline drive and yuppy looking shops. Redcliffe is also home to the Bee Gee's and there is a free display of them and their career's in one of the malls.
The Bee Gee's
The Gibb Brothers on the right, the Bee Gee's on the left in the mall in their honour. Leaving Redcliffe and it's narrow, roundabout heaven streets we made our way North and then West a little as the weather began to close in yet again. The hot and humid weather has been quite draining and it is nice to be sitting in the air conditioning as we drove. We were heading for Kilcoy but decided we liked the look of a town by the name of Woodford. Finding the showgrounds we set up, disconnected and went back into town for a look around until the the sky turned very, very dark and we hurried back as the sky fell in and drenched everything as it dropped 10 mil of rain in one hit.
It was dry when we got here!
26 March 2017 Emptying the rain gauge showed we had received a total of 25mil of rain. So with the ground still awash we left town under grey but promising skies. We were passing through green, open hill landscapes very similar to the back of Yarragon in Victoria and other parts of Gippsland. We stopped in the small town of Kilocy where there is a free camp near the river and one end of the main street, and where the local market was in full swing so Joanne got another market walk in. Moving on from Kilcoy we stopped and enjoyed a local Yowie Coffee at Moore in the Moore-Ish cafe for morning tea Heading off again we arrived in and passed through Yarraman and onto Cooroy where we checked out the showgrounds camp. Not finding what we wanted we stopped for a look at the free camp at Hampton next to the tourist info centre, but decided against it. So then it was onto Toowoomba to the showgrounds, but that was a no go due to their setting up for the Toowoomba Show. So we headed out to Goombungee to try our luck at the showgrounds, but on arrival found a caravan club had taken it over and the caretaker didn't want to give us a site, so we headed off again checking every spot we found along the way and wondering if we were actually going to stop driving today. Arriving in Highfields where we had been to a market in the past we discovered that the market was on the next day and so, stopping outside the pub, we asked the publican at The Farmers Arms if we could stop overnight out the back, and he said "sure". Going back out to the market entrance and then finding our way across the grass we parked up behind the pub and settled in. Lots of cars and people arrived and we began to wonder if a Saturday night behind a pub was a good idea. But as it turned out the pub was fairly quiet, and the birthday party music finished around midnight. Waking to a nice clear sky Joanne went for a walk through the market and then we packed up and made our way into Toowoomba where we got some things and then headed out to Federation Park for the rest of the day. 27 March 2017 After nearly 35,000km of some fairly harsh terrain and numerous U-turns for photos and investigating potential camp sites, we are getting new tyres on the house today as the cheap ones we have on it are not far off being done, and so this morning we headed back to Winjana where we got four new boots (supplied and fitted) from their supplier, at mates rates. New boots on the house we headed down to the showgrounds at Clifton where we have camped before and settled in. At $10 a day for power, water etc it's a good deal. We will be here for a few days to enable us to make some plans, take a rest from daily kilometres, and see how a friend goes at Airlie Beach when cyclone Debbie has finished. If he needs help we may just head North to lend a hand and postpone our trip South. 31 March 2017 Cyclone Debbie made a mess up North and we at out the rain as as it dissipated. The evening before the storm there was a small opportunity to get a photo in before we slept through 40mm of rain overnight.
The weather begins to build up. One good thing about the clouds hanging around is that the sunset is often enhanced by them, and tonight was no different.
The end of the day.
Mark Twain once said "...years from now you will be more disappointed by the things you didn't do that by the things you did do. So throw off the bowlines. Sail away from the safe harbour. Catch the trade winds in your sails. Explore. Dream. Discover." - and so we will. |
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